When you walk into Big Mama’s BBQ in East St. Louis, the first thing you’ll notice is a huge menu filled with year-round summertime style BBQ.
“That’s one thing I’m going to do as long as I’m here. I’m going to make sure that I instill in these kids that they have a chance because there are so many kids down here who don’t have a chance,” said Craig Hunter.
For starters, there is the snoot, pork ribs, hot links, and pork steak. Soul music flows through the speakers, making you feel like doing the “two-step” or “four corners” dance moves.
Craig Hunter is a 22-year veteran in the restaurant industry. He opened his first location of Big Mama’s BBQ in Belleville, Illinois, a suburb about 13 miles from East St. Louis. A second location was at Scott Air Force Base and third location was near Clinton Golf Course in Swansea Illinois.
Big Mama’s is a gem in the community. Hunter is doing more than serving good food; he is making a difference in the lives of the young people in the community of East St. Louis.
“That’s one thing I’m going to do as long as I’m here. I’m going to make sure that I instill in these kids that they have a chance because there are so many kids down here who don’t have a chance,” said Hunter.
All locations were very successful, Hunter says. But he was catering events at golf courses he sometimes wouldn’t end a shift until 3 a.m.
With all the accolades he was receiving for his service and good-tasting food, the proclaimed pit master felt he needed to do more in communities that are underserved, especially with kids who grow up in less appealing neighborhoods.
He closed down the other locations and moved Big Mama’s BBQ to East St. Louis in 2010. He was reminded of the stark differences between the communities he served. Poverty and crime stared him in the face, and the only thing he could think of to fight back was to mentor youths before the streets got a hold of them.
With passion in his voice, Hunter said, “There’s poverty down here, and the kids don’t have the same opportunities as the kids in Belleville and O’Fallon.”
According to PRB data between 2007 and 2018 over 30% of Black children in the United States live in poverty. The population of East St. Louis was nearly 30,000, Illinois demographics data show the metro-east town’s Black population is 96.1% compared to 1.4% of the white population. The average household income is just above $24,000.
However, crime has been declining since 2014. Now some may say that is because the population has been on the down tick and in 2020 the population decreased by nearly 8,000 people. Yet and still Hunter says that is not enough to make a difference in the neighborhoods or the lives of the kids he cares so much about.
“We need to do something about these communities down here,” said the restaurant owner.
Almost half of Big Mama’s BBQ staff are high school students or recently graduated high school students. There are also employees who have been with Hunter for years.
He is grateful for his staff but says that it’s unfair to area youths “when they graduate from high school and they don’t have jobs in their community they can work at.”
Some kids and adults feel trapped and Hunter said people with money and power should invest in these communities.
“Our kids are worth it, just like those kids who live out in the suburbs,” said Hunter.
Hunter teaches young people “to work as a family.”
He instructs them on financial literacy, shares life lessons about investing and saving, and tells them how important it is to give back to the communities they live in.
He teaches his employees to take pride in their work, to serve the customers as if they were long time friends or family.
Jermaryon Crogier, 16, is familiar with Hunter’s daily chats about life. The East St. Louis High School sophomore says that he grew up at the BBQ restaurant because his mom worked there for years.
It was a natural fit for him to work there too, and Crogier said Hunter has always treated his mom like family. Crogier cooks on the grill, helps clean the restaurant, and trains new employees, Big Mama’s BBQ is the perfect working environment for him.
“He [Criag Hunter] has a big personality and he gives us wisdom and life lessons without being harsh,” said Crogier. “It’s always bright when Craig walks in the door, he always has a smile on his face”.
Recent high school grad Vivica Lee has been working at the restaurant since she was 15 years old. Now 19, she says she wouldn’t work under anyone but Hunter, adding that she is invested in the restaurant.
“This is family, blood couldn’t make us any closer,” said Lee.
She loves it when Hunter uses old sayings like, ‘there is more than one way to skin a cat’ when she is trying to figure out a difficult task. Lee isn’t shy saying that he taught her how to cook, along with teaching her how to be financially savvy. She takes those same lessons and shares the advice with her family and friends.
Lee is just one of the many of his staff that grew up without a dad in the house. “He is like a father figure to me” Chuckling, Lee said, “I call him ‘grand dad’”.
Hunter is training Lee to be a co-owner of his second location of Big Mama’s, they are hoping to open a location in St. Louis.
He wants to share what he is doing in East St. Louis across the bridge, and not just mentoring youth, but his love for cooking. The well versed cook prides himself on his food, each meal, dessert, and appetizer are all made in house, fresh, and made with pride, respect, and dignity.
“We’re going to give our customers good food, if we don’t like it, then we’re not serving it,” said Hunter.
Big Mama’s top selling item is the snoot.
It’s grilled until crisp and a sauce is ladled on top. Hunter isn’t just cooking for kicks, it’s a passion, and he gives his all to the dishes he serves.
Hunter says it’s his way of paying homage to his mom and every big mama in our communities across the country. He wants his restaurant to feel like a family reunion.
“Almost every Black neighborhood has a ‘Big Mama,’ someone in the community who will feed you, even if it’s a bologna sandwich,” said Hunter.
“We are going to feed you, but we’re also going to be a part of the community. I donate when I can, I help when I can.”
Hunter has donated coats, toys, and winter clothes, to families in the area. Having Big Mama’s BBQ affords him the opportunity to help others. And helping others includes keeping his prices at affordable rates, most of his items are under $12.
The BBQ master has multiple returning customers, a testament to his restaurant, the food, and employees.
“I’m going to change these communities that people think are not worth nothing. These are all my kids. We’re not just here making money, we’re going to make a difference in our community,” Hunter said.
Ashley Winters is The St. Louis American Report for America reporter.
