MONTREAL – Yesterday, Mos Def was in New York to perform on Late Night with Jimmy Fallon, fronting The Roots, rather than here in Montreal to perform at its international jazz festival, fronting the Robert Glasper Trio, as previously scheduled.
His cancellation left a hole in the festival schedule for anyone looking for African-American talent or music best described by the proper name “jazz”. Festival International de Jazz de Montreal is indeed international and diverse in its offerings and – like most jazz festivals – it stretches the genre beyond recognition. (Soft rocker Jackson Browne is the buzz headliner today.)
Some of us never quite got over the missed opportunity to see Mos Def front a trio led by Robert Glasper, a young Houston-based pianist and keyboardist who comes close to channeling Thelonious Monk. But, still, it was a beautiful day to be in Montreal.
A reporter from The St. Louis American shared elevator rides with members of reggae bands, New Orleans jazz ensembles and rockabilly revivalists The Brian Setzer Orchestra.
And though this thoroughly international, bilingual city remains dominated by individuals of European (mostly, French) descent, folks from the African Diaspora were unanimous when asked if Montreal and the jazz festival are welcoming to black people.
“Absolutely.” “Totally.” “Yes, completely.” These were the answers of black folks who traveled from New York, Boston and New Orleans to enjoy what organizers describe as the world’s largest jazz festival, when asked if they felt welcome here.
Marvin Pauling, an African American in his 50s, is visiting from New York. He said this is his fifth visit to the festival, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary. He said he comes largely to enjoy the wide variety of jazz bands from Canada and Europe that play at the Montreal fest.
“Guys like Ornette Coleman, I can see in New York any time I want,” Pauling said of the African-American free jazz legend honored this year with the festival’s Miles Davis Award.
Indeed, since the ticketed indoors shows tend to feature the sorts of internationally acclaimed acts more likely to play the jazz Mecca of New York, Pauling doesn’t have to pay a dime to enjoy the festival once he arrives in Montreal and settles with the festival’s host hotel, the Hyatt.
Right outside the door of the hotel (where most of the artists stay), he can find several outdoor stages offering free music on and off from noon to 10 p.m., and there are many more free outdoor stages a short, safe walk from the center of the festival.
Pauling said he also enjoys a break from the racial dynamics of the U.S. that persist even in a city like New York, where African Americans have shared power for generations.
“I like it up here,” Pauling said. “I have a friend from the Caribbean, from Trinidad, who moved up here. He likes it. It’s different from the states. Maybe even better.”
The festival closes tomorrow. Visit www.montrealjazzfest.com for more information.
