Within two hours of a conversation between women, I would be willing to wager large sums of money that the subject of hair would arise at least once if not multiple times, particularly if the women are African American. Since slavery, the issue of hair, its texture, length, and color have dominated the conscious and subconscious mind of black women. Many books have been written, documentaries filmed and book clubs across the country (including my own) have discussed the contentious topic of black women and their hair.
My goal is to not rehash those painful debates of defining the ideal beauty and nor to rekindle, in my opinion, ignorant arguments of “good hair versus bad hair”. Just for the record: any hair on your head is “good hair.” As a health professional, my desire is to enlighten you on the concept of healthy hair, skin and nails.
For the most part, the color of hair is due to genetics. Two different forms of pigment, eumelanin and pheomelanin, determine the color of hair. Eumelanin is a black pigment and pheomelanin is a red or yellow pigment. Melanocytes, which are cells that give skin and hair its color, make up eumelanin. This explains why people with darker skin usually have dark hair and people with fairer skin have lighter hair.
However, it has become difficult to assess what a person’s natural hair looks like with all of the perming, relaxing, coloring, braiding and the sewing in of weaves that occur in salons around the nation. In 2012, the black hair market was $684 million dollars and in 2017, it is estimated to be $761 million dollars. Some analysts believe that even those numbers are a low estimate and the market may very well be around $500 billion.
What could possibly be wrong with using a substance to chemically treat your hair to make it straight, more manageable for your everyday routine? I would seriously doubt if those women reading this right now did not remember that first relaxer. I am specifically speaking of the burning that occurs when those harsh chemicals begin to irritate the scalp and surrounding skin. I have known many women who have literally pulled out chunks of their hair following a relaxer and watched it just wash away in the sink.
Please don’t think I am sitting on some naturalista throne degrading women who choose to relax their hair and not acknowledge my past role in that almost cultural rites of passage. I relaxed my hair for almost 22 years. However, what I noticed in those years is how thin and wispy my hair became and how my hairline began to fade away. Chronic braid wearers also suffer damage because the braids are causing what we call traction alopecia. A perfect example of this phenomenon is Stevie Wonder. Compare early Stevie pictures to present day and you will notice that his hairline is several inches back on his head.
Although medications, thyroid disorders, chemotherapy, family history and other health conditions such as lupus can cause hair loss, a vast majority of the loss of hair is self-inflicted. Hair that is chemically treated is weaker than non-treated hair. In addition, these chemicals must be applied appropriately and maintained by an experienced professional. Because hair is such a crucial part of a woman’s self-esteem, hair loss replacement products are also very popular but my advice would involve seeking salons that specialize in helping women of color.
Another booming cosmetic business is that of the nail salon. I secretly wish I had thought of this idea and could have capitalized on this million dollar industry. American women spent almost 800 million dollars on nail polish in 2012. Women have progressed from simply painting nails to applying acrylic nails or tips or getting the latest crave, which is the gel manicure.
Nail salons vary in their level of hygiene and skill of their technicians. Manicures generally involve the technician trimming the cuticles, buffing dead skin, and cutting down the nails. If any skin is nicked, that open area can be an unexpected entrance for bacteria and cause an infection. Furthermore, the acetone used to remove polish and the substances placed on the nails can cause nails to be thin and brittle. Therefore, consider wisely before investing in that manicure.
Lastly, most people don’t realize that the largest organ of the body is skin and probably the least cared for. Low use of moisturizes and the prevalence skin conditions such as eczema contribute a great deal to discolorations and rashes. In addition, people of color falsely believe that skin cancer is only in the white community. Everyone should wear sunscreen to reduce the risk of damaging the skin.
Take home points for healthy skin, hair and nails:
1. Eat a well-balanced diet full of fruits and vegetables
2. Drink plenty of water
3. Avoid harsh chemicals on your nails, skin, and hair
4. Get plenty of sleep at night (at least 7-8 hours)
5. Consider a biotin supplement daily
Yours in Service,
Denise Hooks-Anderson, M.D.
Assistant Professor
SLUCare Family Medicine
yourhealthmatters@stlamerican.com
