African fashion, identity and craftsmanship were the most anticipated menu items on Sunday, Aug. 16, when Zeeoma hosted Dinner, Dress and Dialogue at The Ritz-Carlton St. Louis. The evening brought together guests to hear directly from Nigerian designer Ejiro Amos Tafiri about the work, intention and cultural significance behind her garments.
“Your fashion is art and art is brilliance,” media personality and host Chelsea Haynes told Tafiri as the conversation began. She asked how that brilliance shows up in Tafiri’s process.
Tafiri agreed that fashion is art, but said the craft also demands a strong understanding of science, technology, engineering and mathematics. “Your construction requires the same mindfulness as an architect,” Tafiri said. “You have to make these mathematical drawings. You have to understand physiology to create the proper structure for your client’s body.”
She said people often underestimate how much goes into designing clothing. “People think it’s a simple thing, but there are so many elements that are very much overlooked,” Tafiri said. “It is not as easy as people assume.”
Tafiri added that designers must also anticipate what clients will want before they ask for it. “You have to look into the future and say, this is what you will want next year,” she said.
Zeeoma co-founder Dr. Juliet Ezepue said fashion extends beyond the garments themselves. “Fashion is more than just dresses,” Ezepue said. “I think it’s a function of how we behave, how we act as human beings. Because what we wear is a function of how we feel on the inside.”
Photo by Lawrence Bryant | The St. Louis American
She said Tafiri’s approach reflects that belief. “She said it best when she said, ‘Fashion is love,’” Ezepue said. “Ejiro wants people to see the love behind her garments — the love she has for the people she makes them for. That is the essence for her.”
Ezepue said the event was also about strengthening the connection between Nigeria and St. Louis. She and Tafiri met in Nigeria, and Ezepue invited her to visit St. Louis the next time she traveled to the United States.
“All of this came together about a month ago, and we are having this dinner and dresses conversation today,” Ezepue said.
She said the gathering was designed to introduce people to the craftsmanship and stories behind African fashion. “This is our first celebrity pop-up dinner that actually allows you to learn what it takes to make crafts like that,” Ezepue said. “This is a game changer. It’s about bridging the gaps within the African Diaspora. We are in the gateway city, and I want to have a gateway between American and African fashion.”
Ezepue said St. Louis can help reshape how the world sees African fashion. “We’re really making a conscious, intentional decision to be rooted in Lagos but actually rise in St. Louis and merge the two together,” she said. “People have all of these negative stereotypes about Africa. St. Louis is the gateway city. That gateway can actually be rooted in rising to tell a different story to the world. St. Louis can pave that way in terms of what is beautiful from the continent — not just purchase it, but learn the stories behind it.”
For Tafiri, sharing Nigerian fashion with an American audience was an opportunity to give African design greater recognition. “I’m so excited because I feel like Nigerian fashion is finally being given its proper credit as an influencer of global style,” she said. “It feels really good to be able to share what is truly Nigerian fashion with the rest of the world.”
She encouraged guests to consider their own identity and what they want their clothing to communicate. “You have to understand what your style is,” Tafiri said. “Who do you want to be? What do you want to say?”
She said clothing communicates long before a person speaks. “It’s very crucial to pay attention to what you really have, how you want to be seen, what you want to communicate — and then make your choices,” Tafiri said. “That’s why you have to study the layout, so that you don’t just get a bunch of things that you didn’t necessarily want.”
The discussion ultimately connected fashion to identity, craftsmanship and culture, while highlighting the relationship between Lagos and St. Louis and the role African designers can play in shaping global fashion. Tafiri said style is one of many ways the sons and daughters of the African Diaspora stay connected.
“I don’t even think there’s a difference,” Tafiri said. “I just think it’s different in the sense of how the culture is expressed because of where we are geographically. We carry our roots. We’re very particular about representing our ancestors — or even for our ancestors. All around the world, we are siblings.”